Country: Estonia
Distance travelled: 154km
Weather: Fine and warm

This morning was as pleasant as the evening had been. We lazed about in bed for a while and then eventually decided to get up. On an impulse I checked for a wifi network and was pleasantly surprised to find one available. We both spent time sorting out some business back in Australia and a few other of the endless tasks that seem to require attention whenever the internet is available.

Camp Spot

Eventually we decided to drop into the visitor centre which had a display of animal skins, interesting for those of us who have never seen such animals as beavers, badgers or minks as well as some stuffed animals and birds. There was also photos from the “5th season”, their flood time showing where the water had reached a record depth in 2010. The helpful lady from yesterday told us about a short walk from just beside the centre which went past a river where it was possible to see signs of beaver activity. A short walk sounded just our style so we set off.

A liberal coating of Aeroguard kept the mosquitoes at bay, which was handy since I spent a lot of time on my knees photographing fungi. I assume the dampness here encourages fungal growth, it certainly encourages the mozzies. Although no beaver were spotted, we did pass a sign drawing our attention to a beaver dam on the river and many tree stumps showed the classic chewed-on shape.

Once back at the van, Mark pointed out we still had to get our tyre fixed and the day was ticking by so we packed up, filled the water tank again and gulped down a few sandwiches before hitting the road heading for Parnu on the west coast. A sign showing a tyre and a spanner, fairly indicative we thought, as we drove though Rahu sent us into the suburbs to a tyre workshop operated out of a well equipped house garage. The mechanic and owner had no English whatsoever but luckily for us his daughter had learnt in school and translated for us. He had no tyres large enough to suit the van and although he tried, the hole in ours was too big to patch. He wasn’t very impressed with the tread depth either, but then, neither were we.

He kindly rang a company he knew in Parnu, checking for us that they had the correct size, but apologizing that they didn’t have the same brand. We didn’t see this as important and thanked him, via his daughter, for his efforts. I must remember to sent a thank-you gift when we return to Australia if I can work out his address. The company in Parnu, easy to find as we had been given the address, could fit us in almost immediately and we came away an hour later with two brand new front tyres and a €300 dint in this weeks budget.

We were heading for the ruins of the Order of Helme Castle when we paused in some town, I didn’t notice where, to use the internet again. It was then we noticed how late it had become so we picked another campsite before our destination, leaving the ruins for tomorrow. This led us through the tiny village of Taagepera and up a narrow track to a small spot with nobody about. The sounds of the village were just audible in the evening air but we could see nothing but trees.

While Mark cooked this months’ ration of gammon with egg and mash, I took the opportunity to empty the toilet cassette into the earth closet. We are using no chemicals while there is the possibility that this is the only option so I am not worried about upsetting any biological balance. By the time I had finished, dinner was ready and we sat out a sudden rainstorm while eating. Once the dishes were done, the rain had cleared and I slipped outside, braving the late evening mosquitoes to take a photo of fungi I had seen on a stump. Night had fallen by the time we were in bed, watching some tv.